Remove Mortgage Insurance | FHA to Conventional Refinance NH
For buyers who closed in 2023, 2024 or 2025

Drop the Rate and the Mortgage Insurance

You paid up to win the house in a brutal market and put down as little as you could. Appreciation since then may have quietly moved you into range for two savings at once. Most people only ever ask about the first one.

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At a Glance

  • Your loan type decides everything. FHA mortgage insurance and conventional PMI follow completely different rules, and the right move is opposite for each.
  • If you have FHA with a low down payment, the insurance generally lasts the life of the loan. Refinancing into a conventional loan is the only way off it.
  • If you have conventional PMI, you may be able to cancel it without refinancing at all. Ask before you pay closing costs for something a phone call might do.
  • Two levers shorten the break-even. Rate savings alone rarely justify a refinance at a modest improvement. Rate plus removed insurance frequently does.
  • The trade-off is honest: a new thirty-year loan restarts amortization. Worth weighing against how long you plan to stay.
Why this cohort specifically

You did nothing wrong. You just bought in the worst window.

Inventory was thin, competition was real, and you stretched. You took the rate that existed at the time and you put down what you had, which meant accepting mortgage insurance as the price of getting in at all.

What has changed since is not the rate market, which is still nothing like 2021. What has changed is your equity position. Appreciation across the Nashua, Merrimack and Hudson corridor has moved a lot of those 2023 through 2025 buyers well past the loan-to-value thresholds that govern mortgage insurance, and most of them have no idea, because nobody sends a letter when your house goes up in value.

That is the whole opportunity here. Not a dramatic rate drop, which is not on offer. A moderate rate improvement combined with the removal of a monthly insurance payment that no longer reflects the risk in your loan.

The two-lever math

Why this works when a rate refinance alone would not

An illustration of an FHA buyer from 2023 whose home has appreciated into conventional range.

Refinancing an FHA loan into conventional

Original loan $420,000 at 7.125%, current balance about $408,000, current value about $510,000, giving 80% loan-to-value.

Lever one · the rate
Current principal and interest$2,830
New loan at 6.375%$2,545
$284Saved per month on rate
Lever two · the insurance
FHA annual MIP on the balance$187
New conventional at 80% LTV$0
$187Saved per month on insurance
Combined monthly saving$471
Estimated closing costs at 2.5%$10,200
Break-evenAbout 22 months

Illustration only, not a quote, a rate, or an approval. Actual figures depend on your balance, credit, appraised value, program and the pricing available when you lock. The rate lever alone would take roughly three years to break even. Adding the insurance lever cuts that by nearly half, which is the entire point of running them together.

The number that decides this is your current value. Send us your address and current statement and we will tell you where your loan-to-value actually sits.

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Read this before anything else

FHA and conventional insurance are not the same product

They are priced differently, cancelled differently, and the correct action is different. Find yourself below.

If you have FHA

The insurance does not fall off

On FHA loans with less than 10% down, the annual mortgage insurance premium generally lasts for the life of the loan. It does not cancel when you reach 20% equity, it does not cancel when you reach 22%, and paying the loan down does not end it. With 10% or more down, the premium generally runs eleven years.

Appreciation does not help you here either, because the premium is not tied to your current value at all.

Your move: refinancing into a conventional loan is the only real exit. If your value supports 80% loan-to-value, the new loan carries no monthly insurance at all.
If you have conventional PMI

You may not need to refinance

Private mortgage insurance is cancellable. Federal law gives you the right to request cancellation once the balance reaches 80% of the original value, with automatic termination at 78%, subject to payment history and other conditions.

Separately, most investors allow cancellation based on the current appreciated value, which is what matters to this cohort. Those rules are stricter on newer loans, commonly requiring 75% loan-to-value when the loan is between two and five years old, and typically requiring a new valuation at your expense.

Your move: call your servicer and ask about a value-based cancellation first. If the rate is also worth improving, then compare that against a refinance. Do not pay closing costs for something a request form might accomplish.
If you have VA

There is no monthly insurance to remove

VA loans carry a one-time funding fee rather than monthly mortgage insurance, so there is no second lever here. Your only question is whether the rate improvement alone justifies the cost.

For eligible borrowers with an existing VA loan, the streamline route is usually the cheapest way to capture a rate improvement.

Your move: compare a standard refinance against the VA streamline option before assuming either.
If you have USDA

The annual fee runs with the loan

USDA loans carry an annual fee for the life of the loan, structured similarly to FHA in that respect. It does not cancel through equity growth.

If your value and income situation now support conventional financing, refinancing can eliminate the annual fee alongside any rate improvement.

Your move: the same two-lever comparison as the FHA case, with eligibility rules of their own to confirm.

An FHA Streamline refinance does not remove your mortgage insurance.

This trips up a lot of borrowers. The streamline option is fast and light on documentation, and it can lower your rate, but the loan stays an FHA loan. The mortgage insurance comes with it, on the same terms, for the same duration. You improve one lever and leave the other exactly where it was.

If your equity now supports a conventional loan, the streamline is usually the wrong tool despite being the easier one. If your equity does not support conventional yet, the streamline may still be worth doing on rate alone, and then revisited later. The order matters, so run both before choosing the convenient option.

How to find out where you stand

Four steps, and three of them are free

1

Find your loan type

Your closing package and monthly statement will say FHA, VA, USDA or conventional. This single fact determines which path applies to you.

2

Get your current balance

Straight off the statement. Two or three years of payments have moved it more than most people expect, especially at higher rates.

3

Estimate the value honestly

Recent comparable sales on your street, not an automated estimate from a listing portal. We can pull real comps for your address at no cost.

4

Compare both routes

Cancellation request versus refinance, with the break-even calculated on the combined saving rather than the rate alone.

Self-employed and worried about requalifying? Conventional underwriting reads your tax returns, which write-offs have usually shrunk. See bank statement programs, which qualify you on deposits instead.

All refinance options
Side by side

Mortgage insurance by loan type

General rules across common programs. Terms are governed by your individual loan and by current program guidelines, which change.

  FHA Conventional VA USDA
Monthly insuranceYes, annual MIPYes, PMI, when under 20% downNoneYes, annual fee
Cancels with equity?No, on low down payment loansYesNot applicableNo
How long it lastsLife of loan under 10% down, about 11 years at 10% or moreUntil cancelled or terminated by ruleNot applicableLife of loan
Upfront chargeUpfront MIP, usually financedNoneFunding fee, usually financedGuarantee fee, usually financed
Way to remove itRefinance to conventionalRequest cancellation, or refinanceNot applicableRefinance to conventional

Cancellation rights, thresholds, seasoning requirements and valuation rules vary by investor and servicer and are subject to change. Confirm your specific loan with your servicer before acting.

What to watch for

Five things that cost people money

Refinancing to cancel PMI you could have cancelled free

Conventional borrowers who reach the threshold can often request cancellation for the cost of a valuation. Paying thousands in closing costs to accomplish the same thing is a real and common error.

Assuming FHA insurance drops at 20% equity

It does not, on low down payment loans written in recent years. People wait years for a cancellation that is never coming while paying the premium every month.

Judging the refinance on rate alone

A three quarter point improvement can look marginal on its own and become obvious once the removed insurance is added to the same calculation. Both levers belong in one break-even.

Ignoring the amortization reset

A new thirty-year loan restarts the clock. If you are three years in and staying long term, ask about a shorter term so the savings are not quietly repaid in extra years of interest.

Trusting an automated value estimate

Portal estimates are not appraisals and are frequently off by enough to change which side of a threshold you land on. Real comparable sales, or an actual valuation, decide this.

Taking cash out at the same time

Adding cash to the transaction can change the pricing tier and can push the loan-to-value back above the level that eliminated the insurance in the first place.

FAQ

Mortgage insurance questions, answered

Can I remove FHA mortgage insurance without refinancing?

Generally no. On FHA loans with less than 10% down written in recent years, the annual mortgage insurance premium lasts for the life of the loan and does not cancel through equity growth or paying down the balance. With 10% or more down it generally runs about eleven years. For most FHA borrowers, refinancing into a conventional loan is the only way to eliminate it.

How do I cancel PMI on a conventional loan?

Two routes. Federal law gives you the right to request cancellation once your balance reaches 80% of the original value, with automatic termination at 78%, subject to payment history and other conditions. Separately, most investors allow cancellation based on the current appreciated value, which typically requires a new valuation you pay for and stricter thresholds on newer loans, commonly 75% loan-to-value when the loan is two to five years old. Start by calling your servicer and asking which applies.

Does an FHA Streamline refinance remove mortgage insurance?

No. A streamline keeps the loan as an FHA loan, so the mortgage insurance carries over on the same terms. It can lower your rate with lighter documentation, but it addresses only one of the two levers. If your equity now supports a conventional loan, the streamline is usually the wrong choice despite being the easier one.

How much equity do I need to drop mortgage insurance entirely?

To carry no monthly insurance at all on a new conventional loan, you generally need the new loan to be at or below 80% of the appraised value. Between roughly 80% and 97% you can still refinance out of FHA, but the conventional loan will carry PMI. That is often still cheaper than FHA MIP and, unlike MIP, it can be cancelled later, so it can be worth doing anyway.

Is it worth refinancing for less than a one percent rate improvement?

On rate alone, often not. Divide the closing costs by the monthly saving to get the break-even in months, and compare that to how long you plan to stay. What changes the answer for this group is the second lever: when removing mortgage insurance adds another one to three hundred dollars a month, a modest rate improvement can produce a break-even inside two years.

Will refinancing restart my thirty years?

A new thirty-year loan does restart amortization, which can offset some of the monthly savings over the full life of the loan. If you are two or three years in and intend to stay, ask what a twenty-five or twenty-year term looks like. The payment is higher than a fresh thirty but frequently still below what you pay now once the insurance is gone.

How do I know what my home is worth now?

Automated estimates from listing portals are not reliable enough to decide a threshold question, and they are not what a lender uses. Recent comparable sales in your immediate area are a better indicator, and an appraisal or broker price opinion is what actually governs. We can pull comparable sales for your address at no cost before you commit to anything.

I am self-employed. Will I still qualify for a conventional refinance?

Possibly, though it depends on how your income documents. Conventional underwriting uses tax return net profit, which write-offs typically reduce well below what your business actually deposits. If that is your situation, bank statement programs qualify you on 12 or 24 months of deposits instead. Those loans price above conventional, so the comparison needs to account for that against the insurance savings.

One call tells you which lever you have

Your loan type, your balance and your current value are the only three inputs needed. In ten minutes you will know whether to request a cancellation, refinance, or wait another year.

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